Pearl (Moti) is a precious organic gemstone produced by a snail (living creature like oyster, clam or mussels) through the biomineralization process. It comes in almost all colours with or without iridescence. Pearl is formed when an irritant penetrates the soft tissue of a snail. It can be entered naturally by accident or artificially by humans. To defend itself, the snail secretes layers of nacre around the irritant, eventually producing a pearl. The process can take months to years, depending on its origin type (natural or cultured), water types, temperature, and the size of the pearl.
PHYSICAL PROPERTY;
Composition – Calcium carbonate and protein
Hardness – 2.5 to 4.5 on Mohs Scale
S.G. – 2.6 to 2.85
R.I. – 1.52 to 1.69
Transparency – Opaque
Pearls Classification—By Narce Types
1) Nacreous pearl
These pearls are made of aragonite crystal and conchiolin organic matrix. Exhibit iridescence, luster, and depth of reflection. Nacreous pearls attract value for their layered reflection surfaces and durability.
2) Non-nacreous Pearl
These pearls are composed of minerals like calcite or other non-nacreous materials. They lack true iridescence and often display a porcelain-like surface. Examples include conch and melo pearls.
Pearl Classification - By Origin
1) Natural Pearl
Natural pearl formation is an organic process inside mollusks without human interference. Once, natural pearls were found worldwide, but most sources are totally depleted today. Scarce and highly valued, these pearls are mostly found through antique sources or specialized divers today. Only 1 out of 10000 wild oysters produces a pearl naturally, and even then, it might not be large or good enough to be a gem. Examples of natural pearls include Basra, conch, and melo pearls.
2) Cultured Pearl
Humans grow cultured pearls by implanting a nucleus or tissue inside a mollusk or oyster in a controlled environment. Cultured pearls have the same composition, appearance, and effects on the human body as natural pearls, with the added advantage of being more affordable and widely available. Almost all pearls (more than 99 percent) sold today, including luxury types, are cultured varieties. Each pearl is unique in its making and pattern.
Pearls Classification—By Water Types
Fresh Water Pearl
These non-bead nucleated pearls are cultivated in freshwater mussels in lakes, rivers, or ponds. They thrive in calm, nutrient-rich water and only 2 percent form into perfect round naturally. Freshwater pearls tolerate better than saltwater in regular use.
Salt Water Pearl
These pearls are grown in saltwater oysters found in the seas and oceans of countries such as Thailand, Japan, Indonesia, French Polynesia, and Australia. The majority comes from various Pinctada species, which produce 1 pearl throughout their lifetime.Â
Many believe that saltwater pearls are natural and freshwater pearls are not, which is a misconception. Both are often cultured. Cultured salt water pearls are generally high valued, larger, rounder, and exhibit exceptional luster compared to cultured freshwater pearls, but cultivation takes longer (2 to 7 years) than freshwater (1 to 3 years).
Different Types Of Pearl
A) Basra pearl—The most prized pearl in this list, found in the Shatt al-Arab river, Persian Gulf (also known as Arabian Gulf). The name Basra is derived from the old business hub of pearl, Iran(Basra). Before 1930, the trading of natural Basra pearls played a crucial role in the country’s economy. Currently production of natural pearls has been totally stopped in this region.
B) Conch pearl—Found in the Queen Conch (Strombus gigas) of the Caribbean, with a size of up to 10mm. These are non-nacreous pearls with a unique flame-like pattern. They are rare and valued for their natural pink and peach hues.
C) Melo Melo pearl-Â These natural pearls are found in the melo sea snail (Melo melo) of Southeast Asia. They are non-nacreous and display a glossy porcelain-like luster in orange, golden, yellow, and brown shades. Officially, it is not a pearl, but because of grows in the same conditions as a pearl, considered a pearl. Size normally ranges up to 20mm and shows no iridescence.
D) South Sea Pearl
This salt water pearl cultured mainly in the warm water of Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Myanmar by the Pinctada maxima mollusk. It is famous for its large size, thicker nacre, and golden to silver tone. Due to thicker nacre layers, it exudes a soft, luxurious sheen with white, cream, golden, and silver colours. A long growth period, complex culturing process, and high failure rates give it a strong market value.
E) Akoya Pearl
This saltwater cultured pearl comes from the akoya oyster “Pinctada fucata.” This is a new and trendy variety of pearl. It mainly comes from Japan and China, but also from Australia, Vietnam, and South Korea. Its normal size is smaller (2 to 10 mm), and it is known for its perfect roundness, white hue, and mirror-like luster.
F) Tahiti / Black Pearl
It comes not only from the French Polynesian island (Tahiti) but also from around the island in the South Pacific. This is called a black pearl because it grows in a black-lipped oyster, or Pinctada margaritifera. Any pearl dark in colour is also referred to as a black pearl, even if not sourced from French Polynesia. The colour comes in black, blue, green, or gray with a size of 8 to 15 mm. This is recognized for its dark hue and brilliance and is rarely found in a perfect spherical shape.
G) Freshwater Cultured Pearl
Grow in the fresh water of lakes, rivers, or ponds. China is the world’s leading producer of this, but they also come from the U.S.A. and Japan. Freshwater mussels are capable of producing dozens of pearls at once. Comes in a wide range of colours (white to pink to purple and even black), sizes, and budget-friendly options.
H) Edison Pearl
Edison pearls are large freshwater pearls with bead nuclei. They combine saltwater lustre with freshwater colour diversity, making them highly desirable.
I) Keshi Pearl
These exceptional lustered pearls are a byproduct of culturing with no bead nucleus inside. The word Keshi comes from Japan and means “poppy.” It comes in sizes 2-10 mm and in white, gray, or silver colour. It comes from two main sources—China and Japan. Japanese keshi pearls are more costly and of higher quality than Chinese pearls.
J) Abalone Pearl
A natural abalone pearl is a non-nacreous (porcelain-like luster), horn-shaped pearl that grows in a Haliotis mollusk (abalone). It is primarily found in California and New Zealand in blue, purple, or green colour with strong blue iridescence. Currently, cultured abalone is also coming into the market.
K) Venezuela Pearl
The term “Venezuela” specifically refers to a natural saltwater pearl grown in the water of Venezuela and the western Atlantic region by the Pinctada imbricata mollusk. But it is also currently being cultured.
L) Blister Pearl / Mabe Pearl
A hemispherical, dome-shaped pearl with a flat back, created by inserting a half-dome nucleus into the shell. They grow in the warm water of the Pacific Ocean, especially in Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Comes in white, cream, gold, silver, green, and peacock colours with a size of 8 to 15 mm. It can also come in a drop or heart shape.
Although all Mabe pearls are cultured today and take 6 months to 24 months to prepare, they are also formed naturally.
M) Biwa pearl
Freshwater pearls, whose name comes from the Biwa Lake in Japan (Japan’s largest freshwater lake), where they were historically farmed. These are known for their high luster and elongated, stick-like, and irregular shapes. Colours come in white, soft pink, lavender, and blue.
Currently, the term “biwa” is often used to describe the freshwater pearl of similar appearance produced in China.
N) Seed Pearl
A seed pearl is a tiny pearl. Often occurring naturally and popular in Victorian jewellery.
O) Baroque Pearl
This term refers to any irregularly shaped pearl, regardless of whether it is natural or cultured.
Pearl Grading Scale
This scale describes the quality of gems. This grading is based on luster, color, shape, surface condition, nacre thickness, and iridescence (orient phenomena). Currently, two different grading scales are used. A to AAA, where A is the lowest and AAA shows the highest quality (typically used for Akoya and freshwater pearls). Second is A to D, where A is the highest and D is the lowest (typically used for Tahitian and South Sea pearls).
Remember that no universal standard exists, so the exact quality of grading can vary.
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